Tutorial: Machine Applique

Machine applique is an easy and attractive way to embellish an item, whether it's a t-shirt, bag or bedding. You can add a simple motif or get very creative and layer pieces to create a scene.  In Ivy Designs' past clothing collection, we used a lot of appliqué. The Winter 2009 collection was our best selling range. 

Below is a tutorial I have put together for machine applique. It's pretty concise, so a little lengthy. Over time, I will upload some free templates for you to try out. First lot of free appliqué templates here. Second lot here. 

To appliqué letter or words, see our separate tutorial here. The process is very similar. 

Requirements:

1. Fabric for pieces to be appliquéd - see notes below

2. Double sided fusible web - Brands include  Heat ‘N Bond ‘Lite’, Pellon Wonder Under, Steam a Seam, Floriani Appli-Kay wonder and Vliesofix. Note: Some types of fusible webbing require sewing and others do not. This project uses Vliesofix, which does require sewing. Be sure to read the manufacturer’s application methods, as they differ slightly.

3. Appliqué template – provided as a mirror image of your design or create your own 

4. Background item - this can be fabric, an item of clothing or a quilt etc

5. Fabric/appliqué stabiliser or iron-on interfacing – varieties of stabiliser include tear-away, water soluble and iron-on. This is optional but it will make appliquing easier and prevent puckering. Varieties of stabiliser include tear-away, water soluble and iron-on.

6. Good quality thread – machine embroidery produces fine and shiny stitches. Choose a thread colour that matches either your background fabric or your appliqué shape (or a shade darker). You can make your machine appliqué pop by using contrasting thread colours.

7. Pencil or permanent marker for tracing – to trace the template onto the paper side of the fusible webbing

8. Iron and ironing board

9. Sewing machine - preferably with zig zag or blanket stitch or needles for hand sewing

10. Pressing cloth or scrap fabric - to avoid damaging the applique when applying heat

11. Printer and paper

12. Sharp Scissors

13. Sewer’s Aid (silicon drops) – This is optional but it may help to lubricate the needle and sew through all the sticky layers

More about fabric choices...

Cotton: Solid or small prints are best for appliqué pieces. Cotton is easy to sew and wash. 

Felt: A great material to appliqué as the fibers won’t fray. Wool and wool blend felts are best as they can be ironed and withstand wear and tear. Acrylic felt can be translucent and scars easily. If you’re using 100% wool felt, wash it first.
Polar Fleece: This is a good choice for baby items, as it is soft to touch and easy to wash and dry. 

Washing fabric beforehand...
It is recommended that you wash the appliqué fabric and the background fabric or article before sewing to allow for shrinkage and colour runs (particularly with darker fabrics). Wash the fabric on a delicate cycle or hand wash it to prevent excess fraying and distortion. Do not use fabric softener. Tumble dry on a low setting and remove it immediately to avoid harsh wrinkles. Press with a medium hot iron without steam. 

Tracing, ironing and cutting the appliqué shape/s

Place the appliqué template under the fusible bonding web with the paper side up (adhesive side down). Trace the template with a pencil or permanent marker. If there is more than one shape on the template, leave approximately 1/2cm (1/4 in) space between the shapes so that you can easily cut around them. Alternatively, you can draw your own image but remember that the appliqué will be a mirror image of your drawing. For beginners, it is best to stick to simple designs with few curves and angles.

If there is more than one shape, cut around the shapes roughly but do not cut the pencil/marker lines yet. Place the fusible bonding web, paper side up, on the wrong side of your chosen fabric. Gently glide a medium hot iron over the paper for about 5-10 seconds until the adhesive has bonded to the fabric.

Allow it to cool and then cut the shape out carefully on the line.

Peel the paper backing off. It may be easier to get underneath the paper with a pin. If it is not coming off easily, try ironing the piece again.

Position the shape on your background article and cover it with a scrap of clean fabric (to avoid damaging the appliqué). Adhere the appliqué by pressing it with a hot iron for about  8-10 seconds. Be careful not to burn fabrics such as wool felt.

Cut a piece of fabric stabiliser or interfacing to fit the background fabric – a little larger than the appliqué design. If using iron-on stabiliser or interfacing, fuse to the wrong side using a hot iron, positioning it where the appliqué will be sewn. Stabiliser will help prevent the fabric from puckering and shifting when sewing.

Sewing

On the right side, sew around the appliqué shape, encasing the raw edges with blanket stitch. Blanket stitch does take some practice to get right. As a beginner, zigzag or straight stitch (about 2mm inside the edge) can be less challenging. If desired, put a drop of Sewer’s Aid on the needle to provide smoother stitching. Make sure you backstitch (reverse back and forward a few stitches) at the ends to secure the stitches. Clip your threads. When sewing around corners, stop the machine with the needle in the fabric just outside the appliqué. Raise the presser foot lever and pivot the fabric as needed to change the sewing direction.

After completing the stitching, carefully cut or tear away excess stabiliser.

 If you wish, you can embellish your appliqué with buttons, lace and ribbon. Be creative!

Your appliqué project is complete! To wash your appliquéd item, turn it inside out or place it in a laundry bag. 

Layering techniques

Some of the appliqué templates that I will provide on this site will require layering to build up an image. The order in which the pieces should be added and sewn in place is described in the template. Overlap the pieces as required, using the illustrations as a guide. For neater work, start and stop the stitching on each layer in a place that will be covered up by the following layer.

Embellishments

You may choose to embellish your appliqué work, for decorative effect or to bring out certain features. The following embellishment options work well with appliqué:

Embroidery – Some of our appliqué designs feature embroidery that is integral to the design. Examples include the hands on a cuckoo clock, the antennas on a robot and the strings on a hot air balloon. These designs use simple backstitch. Embroidery can also add texture, colour and depth to appliqué work. You can make an appliqué motif pop by stitching the edge with contrasting embroidery floss. Try decorative stitches such as blanket stitch, chain stitch and French knots. The internet (google and You Tube) is filled with embroidery tutorials if you are unfamiliar with this needlework.

Beads, sequins, jewels, studs, buttons will add texture, colour and dimension to your work. Try wooden beads for a rustic look, buttons for your cat’s eyes or crystals for some bling! Craft stores stock a mind-boggling array of embellishments nowadays.

Ribbon, lace and ric rac – You could place a velvet bow around the neck of your puppy for a bit of luxury. Or perhaps add some dainty lace or ric rac at the bottom of your ballerina’s dress. Get creative with trimmings!